Showing posts with label vacations. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vacations. Show all posts
Friday, September 27, 2013

A visit to Quebec City

I recently spent 5 days in Quebec City, Canada, and wanted to share with you some of that amazing little town. I call it a town for a reason; it's a quaint and charming 'ye olde towne' despite being the capital of Quebec.
Everyone has seen pictures of the famous Hotel, Le Chateau Frontenac, perched high on a cliff overlooking the St Lawrence river. Currently undergoing a massive restoration only half of the hotel is in operation but it remains a great home-base in the city; most evenings were finished in their round bar overlooking the river.
The oldest parts of Quebec City are actually down on the riverfront far below the Frontenac. This area dates to the 17th century and the exteriors have been faithfully maintained (if not the interiors which hold a warren of gimmicky tourist shops).
The city is surrounded by an enormous wall, separating the old town from the modern city. While once it defended the French and British troops, these fortifications are now freely crossed by hoards of tourists.
Definitely take a walk along the top most part of the wall for stunning views of the city.
The terrain is of course challenging, resulting in some cliff-like streets such as Cote de la Montagne see above.
The main street of Rue St Jean is a charming lane full of shops and restaurants.
I stayed at the luxurious Auberge St Antoine, a Relais & Chateaux property located in the heart of the Old Port district. Centrally located, comfortable, and accommodating, I can't recommend this hotel enough!
Much time was spent in the lounge / bar / restaurant relaxing, reading, and snacking.
What is there to do in Quebec City you may ask? Well......
...the answer is probably not much.  If you are looking for a completely charming and beautiful location to relax, Quebec City may be the vacation destination for you!
Other than a handful of beautiful historic churches there isn't much to tour or visit other than walking the streets of the town.
I know because we saw each and every one. Each church was friendly and happy to have visitors tour their beautiful buildings.
I did find one minuscule shop that was definitely worth a visit, the Boutique a la Capucine near my hotel on the Rue St Pierre opposite the Museum of Civilization.
The weather in mid September was comfortable but rather damp with tremendous fog each evening and morning.
Much of the city was viewed through a romantic mist.
The train station is a beautiful Beaux Arts building down near the river that is definitely worth a visit near the entertaining food market.
Quebec is, as you probably already know, a French bastion of culture in Canada. Amazing French restaurants abound and I highly recommend both the Continental for old school HIGH French food, and the Saint Amour for nouvelle French cuisine. The Cafe du Monde down on the river has fantastic views and a wonderful brunch.
Walking around the city is a pleasure, despite any negative feedback you are sensing here. Surprises lurk around every corner, such as this tiny Victorian rowhouse squeezed between 2 much larger buildings.
The perfect length of time to spend in Quebec City is a weekend. This is generally what travelers have as it's a common stop for cruise ships which constantly hover over the lower part of town.
Lastly I have to commend the city for keeping the town immaculately clean with beautiful plantings and street art to be found through the city. Go for the food, go for the views, but just GO!

Friday, August 30, 2013

Hamilton House museum, South Berwick, Maine

Hamilton House was built by Jonathan Hamilton, a shipping merchant, in 1785 but that is not where its fame nor interest really derive. Sitting on a hill overlooking the Salmon Falls River the setting is as picturesque as can be imagined and so caught the attention of 2 ladies in the early 20th century who turned it into what it has become today.
Emily Tyson and her stepdaughter, Elise, purchased the house as it had been marvelously kept intact since the 18th century.  They imparted their own version of the 18th century on the house and inserted their fascinating collection of furniture and decorative arts.
Photographs aren't allowed inside Hamilton House so I found 2 images from the website to share with you and perhaps entice you to visit! The central entry hall spans the depth of the house and features this crazy architectural wallpaper the Tysons had recreated from a sample found.
The highlight on the interior for me are murals on the dining room and parlor walls depicting both Greek & Roman scenes and other local historic houses and ships. All of the woodwork found throughout the house is original to the 18th century; I particularly like the decorative arches in the parlor flanking a fireplace. The Tysons built the shelves hidden behind them during their occupancy where their books still lay!
 Even on a gray, rainy day like we experienced the gardens and setting are stunning.
The gardens were well published in the Tyson's day, as was the house, as examples of Colonial Revival style.
 After Emily's death, Elise and her husband kept summering in the house until her death in 1949.
 Elise had left the house and its contents to Historic New England so that we can all enjoy it and the surrounding forest to this day.
The highlight of the garden is this formal patch between the house and the garden cottage built by the Tysons from other salvaged 18th century houses.
The cottage was as charming as could be and one could easily imagine having it as their own summer get away. That huge window in the main room was especially inspiring.
Be sure to visit Hamilton House and other Historic New England houses while visiting Maine!
Thursday, August 29, 2013

R Jorgensen Fine Antiques, Maine

One of the biggest surprises I encountered on my trip to Maine was the large number of fine antique stores. I'm not sure why this surprised me as the area is known for it's historical importance! Probably the most famous and finest of all of these shops is R Jorgensen in Wells, Maine.
Not only featuring fine antiques the structures (a house and barn) date to the late 17th century. The gardens really steal the show here. On their website many of the antiques are beautifully photographed outdoors.
Also be sure not to miss their fantastic, fun, and informative blog. As you can see above there is something for everyone, from the primitive and rustic to highly refined antique.
Most of their antiques are so fine as to be real showpieces like this Chippendale breakfront. One can imagine designing an entire room around one piece.
The inventory is staggering, almost like an encyclopedia of antiques. Merely reading the labels provides one with a real education!
The shop is also thoughtfully staged. I particularly loved this statue admiring herself in the ornate antique mirror.
 Don't forget antique lighting!
 If crystal chandeliers or sconces aren't your thing, maybe Gothic will entice you?
I had never seen such elegant little (milking?) stools such as these and was tempted to buy at least one for my fireplace at home.
Old houses which scream out for antiques generally have the problem of limited closet space. Large armoires, dressers, or compactum such as this are not only handy then but a great focal point. I particularly liked the informality and architectural lines of this English pine piece.
And what hostess doesn't want a beautiful sideboard in her dining room for informal buffets? Doesn't this remind you out of an English Country House drama breakfast scene? Again, I love the architectural lines of this piece and all of the wonderful storage! Definitely stop by R Jorgensen if you find yourself in Maine and tell them I sent you (and to save me that orange painted neoclassical grandfathers clock)!
I received no compensation from R Jorgensen for this post. They actually had no idea I was photographing the shop as I walked through and I hope they approve of my posting! If they felt inclined as to give me a large discount there are a number of items I would gladly take off their hands though - call me!
Wednesday, August 28, 2013

A vacation in Maine

As I mentioned I just returned from a vacation partly spent in southern Maine visiting dear friends. I wanted to share with you some of the highlights in case you decide to visit Maine yourself (I highly recommend it!).
It wouldn't be a vacation for me without 2 things: house museums and antique stores. Luckily Maine hosted an abundance of each!
The first picture shows gorgeous Hamilton House, an 18th century house museum located in South Berwick, Maine. Famous for its early 20th century gardens and quirky collections we unfortunately visited on a rainy day. All the better to enjoy the house and gardens all to ourselves!
 Two of the most amazing antique stores I have ever visited were located along Route 1, R. Jorgensen and MacDougall-Gionet (respectively in the above photos).  Be sure to check out the fascinating blog on R. Jorgensen's website; I'll be doing a further post on my trip there soon.  I wish I had purchased the Neoclassical French sidechair shown at MacDougall-Gionets!
Of course just driving along Routes 1 and 1a shows one some of the most breathtaking scenery in the country as well as beautiful historic houses and sites.
A visit to world famous Stonewall Kitchen in York was at the very top of my list - I'll be fully stocked on jams and condiments for the year to come (favorites are the Pink Grapefruit marmalade and Major Grey's chutney)!
A drive past the Ogunquit Playhouse was exciting as well, after all of the stories one hears. However their choice of performer during our time there was a bit questionable. Needless to say we didn't stop in.
I highly encourage you to visit the southern coast of Maine (such an easy trip from Boston) and come back to see more in-depth posts on some of my favorite activities! What did you do this summer?